The symbol of the fashion era of crisis – long skirts
In the 1930s continued democratization of fashion, which began during the First world war.
Simplicity, convenience and efficiency of service were the qualities that are valued mass fashion. In the early 1930s, spread dark dress with white collar, reminiscent of “universal dress of the times “great war”.
As then, jenshinam had to shoulder the load of new problems.
It changed fashion way: instead of fatal women’vamp» «Golden twenties» appeared the image of active and modest women’s mother’ women”the patriot».
The symbol of the fashion era of the crisis was the long skirt, which immediately lengthened after a crash on the new York stock exchange.
The first long skirts and dresses waistline natural place in the spring of 1929. suggested J. Patou, then all fashion houses have extended their model to the mid-calf, in 1930. — almost to the ankles.
In mass fashion skirt extended from old dresses, sewing them wedges and ruffles.
Another sign of the fashion of that time — broad shoulders in women’s clothing.
The tendency to expand the shoulder girdle emerged in the early 1930s — shoulders visually expanded scarves, Assembly and wings on the sleeves, 1934. wider began shoulders, and in 1936. appeared pads, which are gradually increased.
Of course, this trend was generally the consequence of strengthening the role of women in society, but fashion historians believe that its occurrence is stimulated traditional costumes of South-East Asia (in particular, the Burmese dancers), with which Paris had met in 1931. during the Colonial exhibition.
In Economics, Schiaparelli and M. Rocha appeared model with raised shoulders. In the United States in 1932. they released the movie ’Letty Lynton», in which Joan Crawford starred in the costumes, created by costume designer Studio ’Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer» Adrian.
To emphasize the specific features of the shapes of stars, Adrian invented for her dress, which extended skirt was balanced lush layered ruffles on the sleeves, which visually greatly expanded shoulders.
These costumes were so popular that a copy of one of the dresses, advertised in the trade directory «Sears Roebuck”, sold in half a million copies.
You can talk about the continuing influence of menswear on women; movie stars M. Dietrich, Garbo wore men’s suits, although in formal clothes they were still banned.
So, in 1931. the mayor of Paris has sent M. Dietrich letter in which he asked her during a visit to Paris not to wear pants, so as not to offend public morality.
In mass fashion pants were distributed as clothing for sports and for the house.